Alpine KTP-445 - Amplificador de audio (10 - 14 V)
|Precio final del producto|
- Haz clic aquí para comprobar si este product es compatible con tu modelo
- 4 x 100 W MAX.
- & fácil instalación plug play (no se necesita cable adicional)
- Para todos los Alpine cabeza unidad desde 2005
- Alta/baja Interruptor Selector de entrada
- Compacto tamaño (W x H x D): 6,97 pulgadas (177 mm) x 1.38 pulgadas (35 mm) x 66 mm
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Descripción del producto
Acorde RoHS: No
Canales de salida de audio: 4.0
Certificado Energy Star: No
Color del producto: Negro
Control de volumen: No
Divisor de frecuencias incorporado: No
Indicadores LED: No
Interruptor de encendido/apagado integrado: No
Potencia pico por canal: 100 W
Tecnología de conectividad: Alámbrico
Utilizar con: Coche
Voltaje de entrada DC: 10 - 14 V
Opiniones de clientes
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It is NOT a "big power" amp that is going to rattle your windows and piss off the neighbors. Nope. It's a small, Class "D" amp that roughly doubles to triples the power output of your existing head unit. To really take advantage of it you need RCA outputs from the head, although it will work with speaker-level outputs. This means that with a FACTORY head unit you will get much less than this amp can offer.
Let me explain -- an amplifier can only amplify what you feed it! If you feed it trash you get louder trash. Your head unit's amp is only so-so to start with (yes, even the expensive aftermarket ones because they figure if you care you'll use the preamp outputs instead!) so you're inherently limited. As a result if you want good sound quality you need RCA (pre-amp) outputs from whatever you're going to connect this to, and you also need to use decent-quality cables (don't waste your money on things like "monster" cables, but do get ones with 100% foil+braid shielding - you can tell they're reasonable in quality because they've got some thickness to them.)
Now let's talk about the amp itself. It's a Class "D" amp. A Class "D" amp is EXTREMELY efficient because the transistors in it are either "on" or "off." They thus dissipate very little power as heat. That's good. However, the way they work is by switching the power at extremely high speeds (typically at least 10x the maximum 20khz audible sound frequency) and then using a low-pass filter made up of reactive components to smooth the output. Due to the way these amplifiers work energy is reflected back up into the power supply as a natural part of their operation. You'll note that on the yellow (power) for this amp there is a black box with something inside it. That "something" is a choke (you can see the coil inside the box if you look carefully through the slot) and it is really important that you NOT cut it off! If you do there is a risk that some of the high-frequency energy the power supply generates inside the amp could be reflected back up into the car's power system. This is unlikely to make the car malfunction but you could easily wind up hearing it in the stereo's sound as it has a decent shot at making it into your head unit and if it does, it could color the sound (quite badly, in fact, especially in the high frequencies.) So in short don't cut that black box off the power wire in an attempt to shorten it up!
The (relatively) small size means you should be able to mount this amp under the dash or in another convenient place, and it's lack of heat generation means it won't overheat and cause trouble in that regard. It requires a 15A circuit (the fuse in it is a 15A one) so some care is required in terms of getting power to it, and of course a SOLID ground is necessary.
There is a set of DIP switches on the back side that set high-pass filtration if you want it (if you're routing low frequencies to a sub this may be helpful, although most head units have a decent high-pass filter in them as well) as well as whether you are using speaker-level or the RCA-level inputs. Again, I STRONGLY recommend against using speaker-level if you can avoid it.
As for sound level this amp will roughly add 3db over what a non-amplified head unit will produce. It's maximum power draw is 180 watts before the fuse blows, and it's rated 45W/ch -- while it can drive either 2 or 4 ohm loads there is no boost to output driving a 2ohm load as there is with some other amplifiers. It's not going to be a lot louder (doubling perceived sound level requires a 10db change -- and 10x the power!) but it will be somewhat louder and, more-importantly, MUCH cleaner audibly.
Make sure you correctly set the input attenuation by the input plug. If you have a 4 or 5V RCA output head unit you will need to turn those pots down quite a bit; if they're turned up too far you will raise the noise floor (and be able to hear it in the form of hiss) along with rendering a large part of your volume control on your head unit worthless since you'll run out of power in the amp first. The best way to set these is with an oscilloscope to be able to "see" the clipping, but few people do that -- as a guideline if you have a 4 or 5V output head unit (most modern units are either 4 or 5v in an attempt to get better noise immunity) having the input settings somewhere between 9 and 10 o-clock is probably about right. If you have low-level RCA outputs you will need to raise the setting commensurately.
Properly installed and set up this little amp is awesome for what it is. Just understand what it is and what you are and are not buying. It isn't a beast, but rather provides a nice but modest boost and a very material cleaning-up of sound quality without having to deal with everything that goes into mounting and dealing with the cooling and power requirements for a "traditional" Class AB car power amplifier.
For a bit over $100 that's pretty darn good.
I highly recommend this amp for giving extra punch to any aftermarket speakers you buy to replace OEM factory models. I wouldn't advise for factory speakers unless your factory head unit has poor output power.
The only con I could give the amp is with the intent being to mount in a hidden location that they didn't include a remote option to control the gain. With this in mind you will have to make your gain adjustments before final mounting of the amp and putting the dash back (or wherever you mount it if hidden away). Excellent price for the amp also.
First of all you will need 4xRCA outs coming from your head unit. Most (if not all) decent aftermarket stereos include these. There may be two more for the subwoofer.
There are two sides to the unit: the harness that plugs into the left is for your speakers, remote turn on lead, and power. All you have to do here is match up each wire with what comes off the wiring harness you bought for your stereo. Use solder to connect wires.
The harness that plugs into the right side is where the RCAs coming off the head unit plug in to. The RCA harnesses that come with the amplifier are labeled F/R, just make sure you match them up with the RCAs you have running off your head unit to the Alpine harnesses. When you have them connected you should test L/R and F/R on the head unit to make sure they are matched up properly.
You have to buy 2 sets of RCA cables as the amp does not come with them. After you buy your new RCA cables, run them from the back of your head unit, into the RCA adapter harness, then plug that into the right side of the Alpine amp.
8 month update: Still works great and runs cool. It is still in my glove box without issue.
Almost 2016 update: Still works great!