Beautystar CNC DIY Router Machine CNC Engraving Machine, Working Area 130*100*40mm, PCB Milling Machine CNC Wood Carving Mini Engraving Router PVC
- This is a miniature CNC engraving machine.
- For study and research.
- Requires self-assembly and commissioning.
- Included all the components, installation wrench.
- The package include all parts of the mechanical parts.
Los clientes que vieron este producto también vieron
Los clientes que compraron este producto también compraron
¿Tienes alguna pregunta?
Encuentra respuestas en la información del producto, en preguntas y respuestas y en reseñas.
Descripción del producto
Dimensions: 250 * 250 * 270MM (9.8'' * 9.8'' * 10.6'')
Working Area 130 * 100 * 40mm (5.1'' * 3.9'' * 1.6'')
Carving stroke: 130 * 100MM (5.1'' * 3.9'')
Screw: M6 threaded rod (4 mm or screw T8)
Stepper motor: nema 17
Voltage: 24V5A switching power supply and two 12V5A
Spindle: 42MM (1.7'') diameter, 775 motor
1x engraving machine (All parts of the mechanical parts)
First, in these assembly units, axle X is horizontal axis of the upright; axle Y is the pedestal; axle Z is the vertical direction. Depends on your habit to set the positive and the negative direction.
Second, If these three axles adjust bad, they will be stuck or not smooth, in this situation, you should loosen the screws and push it until they are smooth, and then you should tighten it.
Third, if the tail of the lead screw swing, it's not the lead screw is crooked, but the motor shaft of the lead screw and the lead screw are not adjusting in the same line.
Fourth, ARDUINO UNO (blue), doesn't need to connect the power, and it is prohibit connect 24V power.
2 opiniones de clientes
Valorar este producto
Mostrando 1-2 de 2 opiniones
Ha surgido un problema al filtrar las opiniones justo en este momento. Vuelva a intentarlo en otro momento.
Opiniones de clientes más destacadas en Amazon.co.uk
Later. He now tells me that he has had no problems assembling the unit and getting it to run but still needs to get all the alignment true to get full travel - and he has found there are two cutters included. He just hadn't recognised them, with the protective sleeve on, the last time he contacted us.
Very pleased altogether and exactly what I was looking for to experiment with.
Construction: As mentioned in a few of the other reviews, the instructions are extremely poor, but i was expecting this so not too upset. (As a man i shall most probably be ignoring the instructions anyhow) They consist of no words, and many, many pictures, often of the same part from several slightly different angles, but yet often still managing to avoid showing a complete 360 view of the thing. Quite frustrating. On YouTube one can find a video of a guy putting it together, but it's been filmed using a (presumably) small toy camera from the 1980s, and it is pretty hard to follow.
Fortunately, there's only really one way it can go together, so just keep at it. Quite a few spare parts are included, which on the one hand is a nice thing, but on the other it makes you quite nervous that you've missed something crucial. Finding you used the wrong screw early on in the process is quite annoying since you have to dismantle the entire thing to fix your mistake! Some measurements in the instructions would have been nice, since there are a few different lengths of the same bolt size.
You will learn to hate the boat nut things. They are the work of the devil. Also, the aluminium bars that mine came with were utterly covered in aluminium swarf. I recommend unpacking them first of all and cleaning them off with a small vacuum cleaner, before you get bits of metal on everything else.
Things that don't work very well: The linear "bearings" that allow the carriages to slide along their rods are terrible, and probably the poorest part of this machine. They are simple metal collars that are forced into holes, but it makes aligning them very difficult. If they are pushed in too far then they clamp tightly on the rod and prevent it from moving, if they are not in far enough they'll be lose and the assembly will have unacceptable play. The sealed bearings themselves (there's 3) had all been forced haphazardly into their pillow blocks, and not a single one was within 10 degrees of true, so i had to remove them and press them back in properly in a vice. So far nothing catastrophic, but kind of irritating nonetheless. There are some springs and extra lead screw nuts that i think are meant to be to prevent backlash, but they're clearly an afterthought and i can't get them to fit properly, so for now i've left them off until i can come up with my own solution. Also, due to the geometry of the parts provided it can't cover half of the bed. You can mitigate this somewhat by leaving off a couple of the 90 degree pieces and pushing the uprights back to the very far side of the machine, but you lose some rigidity that way.
Things that do work very well: The spindle motor is pretty beefy, i was expecting something much smaller. It could do with spinning a little faster, too, i think, but for now it's good enough. The steppers themselves are brilliant, too, and the drivers that go with them work extremely well. They have a tremendous amount of torque when run at 24v. When everything's tightened up correctly it's very sturdy and rigid, there's little to no flex in the structure.
Things that are missing: Limit switches. Fortunately the board has 3 headers for them, but they are not included with the kit. It's not a good idea to run the thing without them really, as you're inevitably going to mess up at some point and it can save a broken milling tool. Also missing - an input for Probing. See my comments a bit further on.
Software and Firmware: The control board is basically an Arduino Uno (Atmega328) on a custom PCB that's been preloaded with an open-source CNC control system called GRBL. Unfortunately it's been preloaded with a very old version. I highly recommend updating it to the latest one from GRBL's website. Sadly i don't think the Atmega has a bootloader installed, since i couldn't talk to it via XLoader, but they've included the 6 pin ISP header on the pcb (it's not labelled as such, but it is) so you can upload a precompiled .hex file through something like USBasp. There's plenty of guides online that will help you with that, and the programmers themselves are about £4 online.
Once you've updated to the latest GRBL you will also need to use the latest version of GRBLControl (included with the CNC machine), which is now called Candle. It's a lot better, too. The latest version of GRBL understands things like acceleration, and performs some sort of look-ahead, which has the effect of making the stepper motors run significantly quieter and smoother, and i think that's improving backlash a lot too.
Z Probing: This is not supported by this device, but you can make it do it anyhow once you've updated GRBL. This is particularly important for PCB milling, since even 0.1mm variation across the board will ruin it if you have fine traces. Probing lets the control software generate a heightmap first, so it knows where to apply offsets. Unfortunately the custom PCB that the kit comes with does not bring out all the pins on the Atmega, and the one that GRBL uses (Pin 5) for sensing isn't attached to anything. You'll need to very carefully solder a tiny wire onto the leg of the chip, and bring that out somewhere. I hot-glued another socket onto the side to attach a big wire to, so as not to risk pulling the tiny one off.
This lead has a crocodile clip on the end and connects to the workpiece (which must be electrically isolated from the chassis) and allows Candle to slowly lower the tool until it makes electrical contact with the board, allowing it to determine the height very accurately. It'll do this in a grid across the board, which gives it an idea of any local offsets (for instance the board tends to rise slightly in the centre if it's clamped down tightly at the edges). When you do this, you will want to make sure the tool (and the rest of the machine by association) is grounded, and the board is connected to Pin5, not the other way around. If you do it the other way you'll get a lot of transient noise on Pin5 from the stepper motors running, and that will trick GRBL into thinking it's found the surface when it hasn't.
Hope that helps someone make a decision about this. TL;DR: It's cheap, how well it works is down to how carefully you assemble it. Can be made to support z-probing with some careful modification. Took about 4 hours to build. Mine can reliably mill PCBs for surface mount components.