- Dimensiones del producto: 10 x 15 x 21 cm ; 8,3 Kg
- Número de modelo del producto: RBX1
- ASIN: B00PUXJWTM
- Producto en Amazon.es desde: 26 de octubre de 2015
- Valoración media de los clientes: 2 opiniones de clientes
- Clasificación en los más vendidos de Amazon: nº14.199 en Industria, empresas y ciencia (Ver el Top 100 en Industria, empresas y ciencia)
CEL Robox RBX01 - Impresora 3D con boquilla doble (tecnología de impresión FFF, 1 mm de espesor, software Automak)
- Amplia plataforma de micro-fabricación
- Sistema de boquilla dual - QuickFill
- Auto calibrado - auto nivelado de cama
- Reconocimiento automático de material - SmartReel
- Extruder reemplazable con retroalimentación
Especificaciones para este producto
|Especificación cumplida||certified frustration-free|
|Nombre de marca||ROBOX|
|Número de artículos||1|
|Número del modelo||RBX1|
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Descripción del producto
Las características de seguridad, innovaciones patentadas, uso diario real y estética son muy importantes en el proceso de diseño.
El sistema HeadLock es un sistema de bloqueo sin herramientas con capacidad para adiciones complejas y de alta potencia al bastidor rígido de 3 ejes.
Cabezal de material simple (incluido): válvulas de aguja: una característica patentada exclusiva de Robox. Aumenta la compatibilidad del material y reduce las grietas superficiales causadas por el estiramiento. Una parada concreta del flujo de material en lugar de depender de la retracción como en las demás impresoras 3D.
Placa de producción y la plataforma caliente ThermoSurfaceTM de Robox, 1 mm de espesor y la mejor superficie de impresión para usar con una plataforma caliente o fría y la mayoría de los materiales utilizados en la impresión 3D de la actualidad. ThermoSurface no cambia de tamaño en el intervalo de temperaturas de la impresora cuando la pieza se enfría, se contrae y sale de su lugar. No requiere esfuerzo, sin riesgo de dañar la superficie o la pieza impresa.
Plataforma caliente: esencial para la impresión de determinados materiales, el tiempo de calentamiento de la plataforma Robox hasta 130 °C es inferior a 3 minutos, menos de la mitad de cualquiera de nuestros competidores. Superficie de impresión de 2 caras extraíble: casi no requiere mantenimiento, limpieza ocasional de la superficie flexible con alcohol como mucho.
Opiniones de clientes
Principales opiniones de clientes
Ha surgido un problema al filtrar las opiniones justo en este momento. Vuelva a intentarlo en otro momento.
El software es bastante sencillo tanto para imprimir como para hacer el mantenimiento.
El doble extrusor te permite imprimir bastante rápido piezas que no requieran un detalle alto.
El ruido es parecido al de las impresoras antiguas de agujas. Llega a ser molesto en impresiones de larga durada. Sobretodo por la noche.
La impresora detecta el material insertado y ajusta automáticamente los valores de impresión (solo con filamento robox original).
Si no quieres calentarte mucho la cabeza es una buena opción. Además tiene posibilidad de poner kit para imprimir dos materiales.
Compacta y con cierre, no desprende calor y es muy silenciosa.
Rápido funcionamiento, incluye driver muy sencillo e intuitivo. Doble cabezal para un mejor acabado, amplia compatibilidad de materiales de impresión.
Incluye material PLA de color blanco y herramientas de precisión.
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Update. Sent back for repair. TWO DAYS after it was returned, stopped working again. Twelve year old with attitude insists he fixed it...I beg to differ.
I fixed the part myself and the printer works great, their software is good also. But as a business owner myself and dedicated to my customers satisfied experience. I would never purchase another product from the people at CEL Robox.
My criteria and how they panned out with Cel Robox after receiving it 5 days ago:
* Ease of use:
Plug and play - print right away after installing Robox Automaker software (the white card is a usb drive accessible by flipping it to pop out and install software), but do the following first before printing (you knew the "but" was coming) :
a) This is optional but Robox community suggests that you always run a Purge (there seems to be test filament in the print head upon unboxing so do the Purge before anything else) OR print the "Robox/3D Models/pyramid.stl" on Draft (you can always pause then cancel once the first few layers of the pyramid is confirmed sticking to the bed if not it takes 9 mins to print pyramid). I did find that preheating the bed, warming the ambient temperature inside the printer, and preheating extruder gives you successful first layers after especially with ABS filament.
b) Let the bed cool down a bit so when you clean up the purged material or remove the printed pyramid, the alcohol from the IPA wipes doesn't evaporate right away and it'll be easier to remove the filament material when the bed is cooled down. It doesn't contradict the first step of preheating since the bed is still warm after and ambient temperature inside the printer is relatively warmer as well.
c) Clean the bed with Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) wipes.
d) Add your model for printing. Before you press the Print button though, set the "Brim" parameter to either 2 or 3. It will add an extra thin first layer around the perimeter of your model. This will ensure that the first layer sticks and stays down instead of lifting up or bending up that sometimes happen on ABS prints. If you can't see the print button that looks like a play button, make sure the filament has been fed properly by pushing it in a bit, make sure you hear a motor whir after, and feel the filament getting pulled in.
e) Now print whatever you like. Remember to let the bed cool down a bit before removing your print. Remove the Brim layer. Then clean up the bed again once you are done.
Note 1: If you find that the filament is not sticking on the first Purge, AutoMaker software has a "Calibrate Nozzle Height" on the "Status" tab > Click 3 dots on panel divider to open advanced settings > "Maintenance" sub tab. This will make sure that the extruder nozzle isn't too high from the bed when printing the first layer. IMPORTANT!!! Before you run it, you will have to remove the PEI plate (the brownish plate with the Robox logo) on the bed. Slide the front black tab with a metal clip to the left, push up the plate a bit from the front finger slot, and slide it carefully out. Follow instructions to determine if the nozzle height is set just right.
Note 2: You'll find that printing in "Draft" instead of "Normal" or "Fine" may be enough resolution for your needs. With Draft, it will exclusively use the larger extruder. Normal and Fine uses both extruders. Go with "Draft" first if you're printing the design model for the very first time. It will save you lots of time. It won't be as pretty but it will get the job done.
I found that the Automaker PDF User Guide is outdated and this confused me a bit. Skip the documentation about the auto registration part since it is no longer in AutoMaker software. Also remember that you can click on the 3 dots on the panel divider to show Advance Settings. There you will find a panel to send GCode commands to the printer as well. If you can't open the printer door for any reason (make sure print is not paused and has cancelled/finished printing), just send the command "G37" to open the case door. I current do not know how to reopen "*.robox" project files that has my model scaling and rotation saved settings since the documentation doesn't match the latest version of AutoMaker. It's not big issue for me but Cel I request that you update your documentation for every AutoMaker version release.
Finally, Robox is plug and play because you don't have to assemble the printer. You also don't need to level the bed and don't need to configure your filament/material settings every time before printing. But unlike inkjet/laser printers, there are some things you still need to do to ensure a successful print. A successful print right now can still have blobs and stringy parts. As far as I've researched, all consumer/commercial 3D printers have issues and they are not at the stage where 3D printers are truly plug and play like paper printers. You will still occasionally get bad and inconsistent prints. Even with the amazing technology Cel implemented on Robox, I still would not say 3D printing is now mainstream. But of all the 3D Printers, Cel Robox I think has addressed more issues than the competition (auto-leveling gantry, heated plates, microclimate ambient temperature, material detection and number of supported types, filament retract resolution, pause-resume, print-speed, extensibility, safety, etc). I wish I could say how it compares print quality wise since this is my first 3D Printer.
On my first ever print, the first layer filament didn't stick to the bed. Don't panic if this happens to you. This is why doing the above steps is very important and they avoid this from occasionally happening. I figured out how to resolve my issue by reading the manual and going to the community forums. I'm impressed that I didn't have to open a support ticket to solve it. I lurked into the forums by the way and haven't introduced myself to the community yet. The community is smaller compared to other forums because the printer is relatively new and you won't find a lot of youtube videos yet.
Instead of throwing specs around like 20 microns resolution (which I probably won't even configure/use since it will take forever to complete a print), I'll just say that I like the idea of upgrading the print heads. I can actually buy (backordered) a different print head RBX01-DM Kit Dual Material Head + 2nd Extruder. Even with that added to the cost, it is still cheaper than MakerBot Replicator 2X, MakerGear M2, Ultimaker 2 and LulzBot Taz 4. The Robox already has dual extruders but it is for the same material only. It has dual extruders with different sizes to speed up print time (uses bigger extruder to fill in material and smaller extruder for finer details outside). RBX01-DM has dual extruders for different color materials or different material types (probably same size extruder though). Robox is like the Dremel of 3D printers. It has the potential to attach 3d scanners, print circuit boards, and probably even do traditional subtractive manufacturing like cutting and routing.
Note 1: You can print with different colors using the regular print head by pausing print, eject material, feed in new color material, and then resume print.
Note 2: You're not stuck with buying Cel Robox branded filaments with EEPROM chips. You can buy and use filaments from other manufacturers/providers. It just won't have the pause/resume capability. There's a thingiverse Robox Reel Spooler: www.thingiverse.com/thing:576324 that allows you to rewind other brand filaments back into the Robox EEPROM SmartReel and even setup a custom material profile (temp, speed, etc. settings) for it so I guess you can still get pause/resume capability with other brands. Think "Cartridge World". I have not confirmed whether this works or not.
I have kids and while I encourage them to learn 3D printing with me, the bed and nozzle can get extremely hot. It will automatically lock the case door while printing. I like that I can lock the case door before turning it off as well.
It's been a month and things are actually better. With the recent software update AutoMaker 1.01.01 (now uses Cura slicer same developed by Ultimaker), I was able to print this seemingly impossible ring of ball bearings:
Something I thought was not possible to print on the Robox. I was also able to complete my 3D Printer Smoke Alarm project just recently.
Experience so far:
Overall, I'm satisfied and I do understand why other reviews haven't been great. I do acknowledge reviewers are very technical and knowledgeable about the subject. The experience they share is very valuable. A lot of things I printed also didn't work out and got stumped for awhile too. For example: Some models cannot be printed as is. I wish it is what-you-see-is-what-you-print, but humbly learned it's not.
On the hardware side I've had the same problems some have mentioned here so I don't think it's a lottery of good Robox printers. When nothing sticks on the bed I recalibrate. When nothing is coming out of the nozzle, I preheat nozzle, eject the material, re-cut filament, and try again. When it doesn't print right, I rethink and iterate. The community has been great and has helped me a lot.
I guess what I'm trying to say is for this price point it's really good (I have no affiliation with CEL Robox). I encourage you to keep at it and it'll work out. To me, having a Robox is like having an Automatic(P) mode on your digital camera. It's not only because it can set material, auto-leveling, and profile settings automatically but it has amazing tools to resolve issues with features like Eject Material, XY Offset, Nozzle Opening, and Nozzle Height calibrations. It's really good. This is recognition that is well deserved.
But just like with photography, the camera is not good alone. You need good lenses, a sturdy tripod, studio lighting, composition, and a good workflow. The workflow I learned is to always do planning and preprocessing: solidify models 1st with Rhino3D/MeshMixer, split the models if needed, plan orientation, and alternatively use MeshMixer to generate the support layer. So far, I've only used the default print settings on the Robox and have not played yet with all the different manual settings. Honestly, the Print quality is not yet on par with the $2500 and over printers. I think with future software improvements (Robox software has only been in development for a year) and learning how to use manual settings will help improve the quality even further.
Please be aware that if you buy one of these early units CEL support is going to try to slow walk you out the end of the warranty without ever addressing or acknowledging the fundamentally defective nature of their early production. I suspect the positive reviews on here are from biased kick starter supporters, other shills or people with current production printers. My research on the forums indicates the most successful users of these early units are having the same experience you get with an old British motorcycle: ride for 30 minutes wrench for two hours, wash, rinse, repeat. I am going to refrain from posting names and screen shots of the actual emails unless CEL posts some stupid response.