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Lisa Pavelka Magic-Glos UV resina 1 oncia-Clear
|Precio:||EUR 8,27 Envío gratis.|
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Magic-Glos is the resin that cures in minutes using direct sunlight, a UV lamp or fluorescent black light. It's a must-have for crafting and working with clay! Great to create cabochon effects and glass-like finishes. It's an ideal sealer for foils, leading and other embellishments. Magic-Glos may not be compatible with all surfaces, especially those that have been treated with water-soluble coatings such as white glue or decoupage medium. More Info: JHB INTERNATIONAL-Lisa Pavelka Magic-Glos UV Resin. Lisa Pavelka is an award winning professional designer who has created her own line of polymer clay accessories and tools to fill a void she found in artistic products. Create beautiful handcrafted pieces of jewelry for yourself or as gifts with Lisa's Magic Gloss. Magic Glos helps to gloss, seal, and protect your polymer clay masterpieces. It can be re-applied to baked clay and is non-toxic with no odor or shrinkage. Works great for sealing transfers, foils and mosaics. This UV resin cures in direct sunlight or with Lisa's UV light (sold separately). This package contains 1 fl. ounce of Magic-Glos. Made in USA.
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That said, I'm giving it a 4 star (for excellent) instead of 5 star (for absolutely perfect) rating. Here are the things I've noticed which may be helpful to others:
1. The Magic Glos will cure completely even with a cloudy sky. At least, it does for me out in Arizona where we so rarely have cloudy skies that this is almost not an issue. As far as I understand it, the product cures with the UV rays. I figured that since you're supposed to wear sunscreen even in cloud cover to protect yourself from the UV rays that there might just be enough of it to cure the Glos. I left my pieces outside and after forgetting about them and leaving them for at least 2 hours, I went out and found that they were cured absolutely beautifully.
2. The Glos tends to pull away from the edges (a handy tip I read in another person's review), so it's something to watch out for. This is a handy thing in general since the Glos IS expensive (you don't have to worry about it running off everywhere), but if your piece has dips and valleys in it, you may need to add a small string of Glos just around the edge of the piece to make it go all the way to the edge. This seemed to be the thing that worked best for me.
3. Let the piece sit on your work surface for at least a few minutes before curing so that the Glos has a chance to even out over the entirety of the piece. This is especially essential for any piece you're working on that may have deep texture. The tendency of the Glos to pull away from edges could cause a few dips in the surface of the coating if you have a deep indentation that didn't get enough Glos to fill it. It's easier (and cheaper) to add a couple of extra drops before curing than it is to re-coat the entire piece once cured. So just let it sit and examine it before curing.
4. If you want to include anything on top of the coating, cure a layer first and then add your extra pieces, then add another layer of Glos. If you put too much on top, the Glos won't properly cure since it has to have exposure to the UV rays in order to set up. It makes sense, of course, that if you block the UV rays by putting too much stuff on top, you won't get a cured piece.
5. Magic Glos can be baked with the polymer if you'd like to add extra pieces on top once the Glos is cured.
6. Failure to cure the Glos completely can cause later issues with the coating. It's essentially a resin coating, so looking up information on what can keep resin from curing correctly (additional moisture, for instance) could help you avoid any future issues.
Just like Ice resin, if you have a boo-boo you can sand off the offending area with a fine grit sand paper and apply a new coat of Magic Gloss over the top, and when it dries you won't be able to see the spot at all.
This leads me to my one big gripe about this stuff. Bubbles. It bubbles like crazy. I will apply the gloss, let it set for a minute or 2, then pop it under the light, and bubbles appear where there were no bubbles. Drives me NUTS, especially since they are almost impossible to pop. I've tried pins, needle, the tip of my seam ripper, and 90% of the time the bubbles will not pop. I end up catching hold of the bubble and dragging it to the edge of the piece, and trying to scrape it off, which, depending on how set up the resin was, can make a mess, and be pretty frustrating. I think from now on I will tap all of the pieces for several minutes each, before putting them under the light - hopefully that will encourage the bubbles to come up right away.
For the bezel photos, I make designs on photoshop and then print them on my ink jet. I then cover each of the teeny designs with scotch tape. After gluing the design into the bezel (using regular clear glue), I wait about 10 to 15 minutes for the glue to cure. (The "elmer's type of glue cures quickly. I'm sure I'd have to wait a considerably longer period of time with other glues. On the other hand, why do I need to use those other glues when it is not needed. The run-of-the-mill glue works well.)
I then pour the magic glos onto the bezel. After curing in the sun, Voila! I have a gorgeous custom bead for the charm. I'm going to try making a clear pendant in the next few weeks. With that, I will use plastic wrap covered with the bead release. I'll then use a frame without a back. One it cures, I supposed to end with a clear pendant. I'm looking forward to trying it.
Thank you, Lisa.