Makita LS1016L - Sierra ingletadora
- Gatillo de gran tamaño para un mejor ajuste mayor comodidad y facilidad de manejo
- Rápido y preciso bloqueo de ángulo de sierra mediante interruptor ajustable a 90° con tope 0° 15° 22.5° 31.6° 45°
- Arranque suave freno del motor y con reducción de velocidad en vacío
- Potencia 1510 W
- Capacidad máx. de corte 90° 91 x 279 mm, Capacidad máx.de corte 45° 91 x 179 mm, Peso 24 2 kg, Diámetro de disco 260 /30 mm, Dimensiones 718 x 640, Disco de corte, Extensión de apoyo, Bolsa de polvo, Vise vertical, Llave de tubo
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Descripción del producto
Sierra ingletadora LS1016L de Makita
Características del producto
Mayor capacidad de corte de molduras de corona de su categoría
Diseño compacto con un sistema patentado de 4 de acero
Gatillo de gran tamaño para un mejor ajuste mayor comodidad y facilidad de manejo
Rápido y preciso bloqueo de ángulo de sierra mediante interruptor ajustable a 90° con tope 0° 15° 22.5° 31.6° 45°
Arranque suave freno del motor y con reducción de velocidad en vacío
Potencia 1510 W
Velocidad en vacío 3 200 rpm
Capacidad máx. de corte 90° 91 x 279 mm
Capacidad máx.de corte 45° 91 x 179 mm
Peso 24 2 kg
Diámetro de disco 260 /30 mm
Dimensiones 718 x 640
Disco de corte
Extensión de apoyo
Bolsa de polvo
Llave de tubo
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Opiniones de clientes
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Makita's bevel gear drive now has intermediate reduction gears which raise the motor housing higher above the saw blade arbor than the 1013 and also reduces the saw blade speed down to 3200 rpm. Because of the higher motor location, the critical right tilt of the bevel (45 degrees) allows sawing 1 11/16" high boards an improvement over 1 1/4" for the LS1013. The left 45 bevel capacity increases also to 2 3/8". I like the addition of a double handled bevel lock lever making it easy to operate regardless of which side of the saw I am approaching this control (behind the saw) from.
Most competitors seem to be stuck on using a drive belt to move the saw motor away from the arbor in order to allow dual bevel. This is my second Makita dual bevel slider and both have had excellent power and torque cutting through all hard and soft woods as well as handling lumber which occasionally has internal stresses bind on the blade (the only time that I really notice the full use of the torque available from any saw.) Makita's bevel and spur gear train delivers without any hesitation AND does that while delivering a final blade speed of 3200 rpm. The 1013 was 3700 rpm, all of the competitive saws seem to have blade speeds of 4700 up through 5200 rpm. I don't know if the higher spped is to lower the stress on the drive belt, but it definitely increases the screaming of a high speed blade both when spun up and cutting through wood. For a 10 inch this is my quietest saw yet. Also worth mention is that the soft start motor is so effective I can barely detect any recoil when it starts up yet the motor is at full speed ready to cut without causing any wait on my part.
The 1013 had a passive spring loaded detent for the zero degree bevel setting, while this model has a stop pawl which is manually disengaged with a push button to swing past while moving to a right bevel. Unfortunately, this internal pawl was broken on the first of two saws delivered to me. I think this saw had taken a drop during shipment causing the internal damage. Although I preferred the older detent for speed, this system works fine for me. I might note that the 45 right and left stops are hard end stops which are adjustable with set screws. If you were really pressed to do so, you can bevel as much as 47 plus degrees either way but at a loss of the stop setting. For any flat baseboard miters as high as 4 inches or so, you could just use miters to cut for those occasional room corners that are narrower than 90 degrees however before being forced to cut on the flat instead of against the fence.
As far as miters are concerned, this goes 60 degrees right which is great (I am clueless why someone might mfg a saw which goes to 57 degrees . . . ) this one also goes 52 left. Now what I wonder is why none of the manufacturers will give me the capacity to go 60 degrees left. For this saw table, it would increase the base size no more than 2 1/4" in width left of the center and probably add 2 pounds to the weight. I'd pay for the extra aluminum and also put up with the extra 2 inches in the truck and definitely make room for it in my workshop. (I'm a general contractor who builds homes as well as building fine furniture as well as custom cabinetry both in my own facility as well as onsite.)
The detents for miter settings are crisp and the miter lock seems to be very tight.
I haven't met a miter saw yet which is super effective at dust control, this one doesn't excel at this either. (When used in my shop, my miter saw table area has a back board, with a big scoop to a 4" dust system on one side and a small fan directing the spray of dust at the scoop from the opposite side.)
The biggest concern so far has been the linear bearings on the upper set of sliding rails. As the first reviewer noted these bearings are very rough at the onset. I have seen that many other users have also noted this on several wood working and contracting forums (my review and writing are within a couple of weeks of this product release on the street). I am now using the second of these saws shipped to me. On the first one, the roughness of the bearings seemed to have been 90% broken in (in about a week of use) and running nearly smooth. This second replacement saw has been in use now for 4 days and is slowly getting smoother in operation. Only time will tell if it completely smooths out. It seems a bit odd that Makita could make the lower set of linear bearings silky smooth and the upper set is (or at least starts out) horrible, (maybe there are dual linear bearings for each of the lower slide rails) . As for why this is designed with two sets of rails (upper and lower) and two sets of linear bearings, I haven't fully digested. What I will note operationally is that the 1013 single set of "under" carriage rails demands a completely clear counter space behind the saw when working out in the field. This 1016 is more forgiving in a cramped job site.
My other complaint is the poorly executed documentation. Illustrations are tiny and poorly labeled and do not correspond with the text well. The language is executed with the very worst combination of english second language by a non technical writer as far I can interpret. Yes I know that Makita sales have slid 15% in the current economy, but for a 300 billion yen company, how about spending a thousand dollars to have a good technical english writer do the manual! I don't expect a manual of how to do wood working but I shouldn't be puzzled about which part is being referred to to make adjustments or operate the saw.
I would also like to see Makita include the side extensions. The holes for it are machined into the base, but I can't find that I can even buy them. I wouldn't mind paying a couple dollars more to have them included or at the very least they should be available for sale. There are times when the few extra inches of support are appreciated yet I can't justify bringing a full miter saw stand to the job.
The quality control (other than the rough upper linear bearings) are superb. The machining of the turn table and table side wings are flat and smooth. I do miss the large turntable of the 1013 and the support it affords for wider boards, but I am suppose a smaller turntable was needed for the wider miter angle settings. The new fence is also welcome offering much higher support on both sides of the blade than the 1013 and seems to be a stouter approach than the "flip over" high close support for vertical bevels (I have had two of the flip fences on previous saws broken by sudden catches of wood while my employees have had them out in the field). The sliding upper fences are a good solution to allowing both high vertical support and clearance for bevel cuts.
Also on quality control, I had come near to ordering a deep blue colored saw but had seen a reviewers note about alignment of the arbor to the sliding axis. Out of two 1016's delivered to me, the first one was out of alignment a little tiny hair (this is the one which I suspect took a drop in shipment), the second one is virtually dead on. If you make a plunge cut at the rear of the sliding travel, and make a separate second plunge cut at the front of sliding travel (do not slide the saw while in the wood but make two separate plunges) the two separate cuts should be in dead alignment. If you see an offset in the saw kerfs it means that the blade arbor is out of alignment and the blade can not slide or travel straight with the kerf and you will have binding when sliding and wavy cuts, burnt edges . . . etc. I don't think any manufacturer makes this adjustable so either it's right or it's a lemon. BTW the included ATB saw blade is superb, I had orderd a neg rake Freud to put on this saw, but I'll wait until the factory blade needs sharpening.
Overall, I like this new release from Makita and expect it to serve me well I hope that the roughness of the upper linear bearings completely goes away soon.
I have now "owned" 3 of these. It seems that thieves like them too as I have lost two of them off of job sites. This still remains as my favorite all around miter saw that fulfills the most versatile usages. We like best a 12" non slider double bevel when doing major framing. At the opposite extreme the Makita 7 1/2" 18 Volt Lithium Ion is now our favorite saw when trimming (see my review there especially about the surface speed of the saw blade). There is no such thing as THE perfect miter saw but there are great miter saws for specific usages. This should be on the short list for many users.
The linear bearing issue for Makita seems to be mostly resolved as compared to when the dual slide 4 rail system was first introduced several years ago.
I'm not a professional contractor, more of a serious DIY-er. So far this year I've installed hardwood and new baseboard and casings throughout the main floor of our house, and I'm now using this LS1016L to complete a two level 23x21 foot deck with lots of angles and stairs out back. I thought it was high time I get myself a good quality saw with a reasonable cutting capacity. The LS1016L seemed to fit the bill.
I gave this saw 4/5 stars, let's get the bad news out of the way first.
Issue #1 - TOP RAIL BEARING SMOOTHNESS
After reading how others had not been pleased with the smoothness of the upper rail travel, this was the first thing I checked when I unboxed the saw. Yep, the bearing travel is a little rough, for sure, not nearly as smooth as the lower rails. I found that loosening and re-tightening the cap on the back of the top rails eliminated most of this roughness almost immediately. This is easy to do:
1.Pull the saw all the way forward and lock the lower rails, then push the saw back and lock the upper rails.
2.Using a 3mm Allen Wrench, loosen the set screws in the top of the rail cap about 1 turn each.
3.Wiggle the cap until it feels loose then tighten the set screws being careful not to torque the cap and load the rails.
This cured the majority of the bearing roughness right away. The top rails still don't glide as smoothly as the lower rails do (and they probably never will given the way they are supporting the weight of the saw head), but they are much better now.
Doing this helped tremendously with my particular saw, but there is no guarantee it will work with every saw, I'm just sharing my experience.
Issue #2 - 0-DEGREE BEVEL STOP
Others have had an issue with the bevel stop being broken. This worries me a little since mine is definitely still there and working, but it feels "soft" and seems to flex a bit when trying to set the saw for a 0-Degree cut. Is the stop in my saw working as designed? Is it cracked and therefore more flexible than it should be? I guess I won't know unless I take the bevel mechanism apart and have a look. Shipping this saw back to Amazon isn't practical since it costs a fortune and I no longer have the box to ship it in. If I ever disassemble this thing to figure out what's going on I'll update this review.
A number of other small issues that bug me about this saw, but really aren't significant to its operation:
1.The clamp (vise) doesn't tighten down quite enough to keep it solidly in place when carrying the saw around. Another thread on the screw would allow it to tighten firmly down to the table and keep it in its place.
2.The laser can be adjusted to the left or right of the blade, but doing this requires loosening a small plastic cap that's difficult to get a good grip on. Can't there just be a lever to switch it back and forth? How about a laser on BOTH sides of the blade?
3.It almost cuts a 2x10 at 45 Degrees - ALMOST. I need to take about 4-5 swipes with a hand saw to finish the cut. If another ¾" of travel had been designed into the upper rails and kerf/mitre plate this cut would be no problem, and would give Makita a great spec to brag about.
AND NOW FOR THE THINGS I LIKE ABOUT THIS SAW:
The mitre table and lock system works beautifully. Simply set to the desired angle and turn the knob counter clockwise; a spring loaded lock pops into place and it's SOLID. Using the lock even when in one of the common angle locks helps to improve the rigidity of the table too. Very nice.
This works so well and really gives the saw the feel of a professional grade tool. The blade goes from rest to full speed very quickly, but with absolute smoothness! There's no kick or torqing through the saw head - beautiful.
Makita chooses a sealed gearbox to transfer power to the blade instead of a belt (as so many other companies use), I like this idea much better. It is also very quiet - I don't even feel the need to wear ear protection using this saw.
CONSTANT SPEED DRIVE
The LS1016L maintains blade speed as you are cutting; it automatically ramps up motor torque to overcome the resistance of cutting. This gives the saw an effortless feeling about it, the saw never sounds like it's working very hard.
Between the soft starting, quiet gearbox, solid mitre table lock, constant speed drive and excellent included 60T carbide blade, this saw is one smooth cutting machine. Cuts never bind unnecessarily and the blade makes beautiful cuts, very smooth. I think the lower cutting speed of the blade (much lower RPM than some other saws) helps greatly with keeping vibrations out of the blade. This saw cuts SMOOTH.
EASY TO CARRY
The handles in the base are large, rounded, and easy on the hands when carrying. This saw may be RELATIVELY light compared to some, but it still weighs over 50lbs so nice handles are a definite plus. It also folds up into a relatively compact package, much smaller than any 12" saw for sure, and according to the specs this saw cuts as big as many 12" saws do.
Overall I'm happy with my purchase and wouldn't hesitate to recommend this saw. I'm not going to put it through the rigors of professional use so it will probably last for a very very long time. If I figure out that 0-Degree bevel stop and get the upper rail bearings to loosen up a bit, this LS1016L will be with me for many years to come.
1. My saw was not square out of the box. It was off by a few deg on the miter but squaring it up was easy and now cuts perfect.
2. When fully extended and cutting through hard wood the head will chatter a little bit. I only had the stock blade and a DeWalt 80 tooth. A higher quality blade might work better.
3. Dust collection is "OK". When hooked up to an average shop vac it is better than the stock dust bag. Its comparable to other SCMS that I have used.
4. Laser is dead-on accurate.
This is a solid tool and Im sure it will provide me many solid years of use.