Syba SD-ADA45006 - Adaptador dual CompactFlash a IDE de 2.5" (6.3 cm) y 44 pines
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- Descripción del producto: SYBA sd-ada45006
- Tarjetas de memoria compatibles: CF
- Unidad de matrices admitidos: 6, 35 cm (2.5)
- Tipo de interfaz: IDE
- Color: Negro.
- Peso: 136 g
- Tamaño (AxPxA): 165,1 x 203.2 x 50,8 mm
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Descripción del producto
Bahías de unidad soportadas: 6,35 cm (2.5")
Color del producto: Negro
Dimensiones (Ancho x Profundidad x Altura): 165.1 x 203.2 x 50.8 mm
Soporte de tarjeta SIM: No
Tarjetas de memoria compatibles: CF
Tipo de interfaz: IDE
Voltaje de memoria: 5V
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Image attached for anyone not sure of which to remove (carefully by bending up and down without damaging other pins - use small needle nose pliers.) Alternatively you could use small cutters,just be sure to cut it close to the connector (and again, the correct pin! There is no going back)
CompactFlash cards even the superbly fast 1,000x or faster are designed for digital cameras that emphasize write operations instead of simultaneous read and write disk operations Windows is notorious for.
LINUX and BSD derivatives have better memory management, caching those reads or writes inside RAM instead of bottlenecking the drive controller, even LINUX blazes noticeably faster on a true SSD Samsung 850 EVO 120GB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD (MZ-75E120B/AM) with a dedicated cache.
I've used these Syba's and Addonics CF>SATA (and CF>PATA / CF>IDE) and typically experienced 66MBs - 95MBs transfer with contemporary 300x and better cards as early as 2010. Even old CF cards purchased before 2010 and used heavily have remained usuable without burning up their memory cells even with unoptimized Windows systems allowing prefetch and paging.
SSD's used to cost several dollars per GB but can be had now for about fifty cents per GB and perform 300MBs R/W.
This SYBA with even exotic 1666x pricey cards still falls short but cost two to three times a contemporary Samsung heralded fast as flaming lightning.
This Syba should be considered for those instances when experimenting with different "drives" and rapidly swappable / replacement drives such as for embedded industrial systems mandate.
Has LED-s on it to show power and disk activity.
This device can be plugged in "upside down" with likely disastrous results. Make sure you "mind Pin1". Pin 1 is denoted by a square pad for the copper on the Printed Circuit Board.
You may have to break off one of the pins of the 44-pin connector to fit the the socket. Examine the drive you are replacing carefully to note which pin to break off. Again, make sure to mind your pin1 to insure you do not accidentally have the drive upside down.
Formatting for DOS 6.20:
Remove the old HDD, replace with this module. I used a SanDisk "ULTRA" CF card. You want a fast one, and you want one with the wear-leveling issue addressed. The File Allocation Table takes a lot of hits, and EEPROM-based Flash technologies have had a history of write endurance issues. I have already had volleys of Email with SanDisk over this. Their ULTRA series incorporate advanced wear-leveling algorithms that keep me from killing the FAT area. As you know, if the FAT is corrupted, the data becomes inaccessible, as the OS has no idea where it is.
Incidentally, the ULTRA series CF cards have a lifetime warranty.
Boot up under a bootable floppy, having at least the system, command.com, fdisk.exe, format.com.
Using FDISK, delete the existing NON-DOS primary partition ( actually, it is formatted FAT32, but the early FDISK does not know anything about FAT32 ).
Create a new primary partition. On my machine, I had a 8GB CF card installed. FDISK only saw 1GB. I went ahead and created a 1GB FAT16 primary partition.
Again, using FDISK, delete the 1GB partition you just made, but now, FDISK should see all 8GB of space. Create a 2GB primary partition, and a 6GB extended partition. Mark the primary partition active. Create three more DOS drives of 2GB each in the extended partition. Remember, the old BIOS and DOS does not recognize anything over 2GB. If you take this back further, you may not even be able to format even this much.
You can now format C:/S to format the primary partition as C:, and transfer the system files to it.
You now need to do a FDISK /MBR to copy the Master Boot Record to the C: drive.
At this point, you should be able to boot directly into DOS from your new CF based SSD!
Go ahead and format D:, E:, and F: . You now have 4 drives of 2GB each!
One thing about SSD drives, such as this. You will never need to defrag it. "Seek time" is the same, no matter where the OS points the next sector to.
Have fun. And pat yourself on the back for getting the fast CF card.
Other reviewers have noted some mechanical discrepancies. In my case, the physical sizes of the populated CF drive and the drive it was replacing were similar. Yes, the pins were about 1/16" longer than the pins on the HDD they were replacing. As far as the mounting holes on the side of the plastic case, they were different than was on my HDD, but since the mounting hardware I had has slots, it wasn't an issue for me.
For keeping old dinosaurs alive, this little gadget is hard to beat.
One issue with this: I initially had problems with the music player recognizing the device, causing it to crash on boot. I opened it up to find out that the jumper pads were soldered to 5.5 volts, rather than 3.3. I had to disconnect (desolder) the 5.5V jumper and bridge the 3.3V jumper by soldering it. Worked perfectly after doing that. Please check the jumpers for your application.
If there's ever a redesign, the jumper pins should be a bit easier to set and not preset at the factory. That's the only negative I have with it. The rest of the device works perfectly.