Yuasa YTX20-BS Bateria - 18Ah
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- 12v 18Ah 270cca
- Excepcional resistencia a las vibraciones
- sulfatación retardante
- Incluye paquete de ácido
- 1 año de garantía
Descripción del producto
Incluye el ácido - libre de mantenimiento VRLA (Válvula regulada de plomo ácido), una batería que es perfecto para personas que tienen cosas mejores que hacer que el mantenimiento de la batería. Permanentemente sellado Yuasa baterías VRLA
Detalles del producto
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Firstly this is THE brand to get if you have a Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki et al. We're not just talking motorcycles as it's the same battery you use in your jet ski, skidoo, quad bike etc.
Secondly this is the same size as every other generic motorcycle battery; it's not car battery size. It slotted into my Yamaha Road Star Silverado without problem.
Finally it's not a gel battery - this is important as it comes with acid you have to pour into the battery and thus it's not going to be pre-charged. If you've never added acid into a battery it's supremely easy, just use the supplied charger and turn it upside down and ram it into the top of the battery. Let it drain for 20 minutes then cap it off using the same plastic strip you took off the charger. Finally trickle charge your battery for at least two hours. Done.
If all this is scary trust me it's not - all instructions are included and all it's a perfectly normal procedure. Once it's done your battery is maintenance-free.
If you need a YTX20HL-BS battery then you need look no further - there's no other version of the YTX20HL-BS that's a different size or spec. This is what you need.
BenzWorld recommended this Yuasa as the highest-quality replacement AGM battery for this purpose, with the easiest, perfect-fit, drop in, shape, replacing the aux battery on our 2004 Mercedes E500 4-Matic. The price at Amazon is good.
BenzWorld had also mentioned comparable, similar-but-not-identical batteries from NAPA, Sears, WalMart, etc. However, when you went to try to find them, this is an oddball size that nobody stocks, so it's several days while it comes from the warehouse, if at all.
Meanwhile, BenzWorld had lauded this Yuasa battery as the best one. So, after wasting a day trying to buy locally to save time, I finally just ordered this for next day delivery, only $3.99 with Amazon Prime. Live and learn -- Amazon rocks: Received battery next day. Filled it. Charged it. Installed it.
Runs like a champ.
Here's the procedure I followed to replace my aux battery, based on synthesizing about 40 BenzWorld posts from multiple threads. Worked great for me; don't know if it's exactly to MB manual specs:
(1) Follow Yuasa's instructions: Fill battery with acid. Let sit an hour, including time acid is dripping in. Charge battery per manufacturer's recommendation. Let sit a few minutes. Insert sealing caps and press each down carefully to make sure they really are sealed, because this is going in the cabin air intake system. (Yep. It is.)
You will need a #10 ratchet and a pair of gloves. That's it. All the nuts we will remove, including on the battery, are #10.
(2) Open the hood. Put on your gloves. One neat trick: on each side hood hinge, in the middle of the hinge, where it hinges, there is a little metal button/pin. Behind it is a toggle that lets you retract it. Push on the pin and you can feel the toggle behind it. Push on the toggle, retract the pin and push the hood a little higher. Repeat on other side. This then frees the hood to go into "maintenance mode", where you can push it to almost completely-vertical. That gives you better access to the battery.
(3) Locate the air conditioner cabin air filter assembly. It's the plastic box on the far left as you are looking at the car from in front. You can see that it kind of hinges/hooks to a plastic deal by the firewall. In the front of it, there is a metal assembly that hooks to the chassis. There is a plastic nut on top. Put your #10 ratchet on it and twist left to loosen. Remove the nut and put it somewhere safe. Now, pull up on the front of the assembly and slide it off the hooks in the rear. On the reverse side is your cabin air filter. Amazon has some good replacements that are much cheaper than the dealer's. Set the assembly aside.
(4) You will now be looking down at the battery. It is held in place by a little cage-thingy that secures with a metal nut/washer. Also #10. Put your ratchet on it. Loosen and remove. Now swing the cage up and the battery is freed.
(5) Remove the black (negative) lead. Use your #10 ratchet to loosen the screw securing it to the battery. You may need to spin it by hand some. The nut should stay attached to the lead when you have freed it from the battery. Push the lead to the side. Don't let it touch anything, especially the other lead.
(6) Remove the red (positive) lead. Same way. Again, be extra-sure not to let it touch anything. You can even have a helper hold it.
(7) Pull the old battery out. Remove the red and black little insulating squares from the old battery, if it has them.
(8) Take the nuts from the little bag of screws and nuts provided with the new battery. You won't need the screws. Put one nut inside each of the terminal blocks on the battery, so that the hole in the nut lines up with the hole in each battery terminal.
(9) Install the red and black insulating thingies. Check to make sure that the RED is on the positive, and the black is on the negative. Check again. Check again. Check again. If you screw this up, it's going to be an expensive trip to the dealer.
(10) Put the battery in the compartment. Center it nicely. Pull the cage-thingy over it and make sure it is secure and tight laterally and vertically. It shouldn't move at all. Get the screw/washer that you had set aside and install it so that the battery is nice and secure.
(11) Install the positive cable first. Check again that the red is going to the part of the battery that has the + sign. People really do screw this up -- don't let it be you. You are inserting the screw through the top of the terminal and connecting to the nut you installed a few steps ago. Make it nice and secure. Close the red cap.
(12) Install the negative cable. Same way, except no cap to close.
(13) Reinstall the air filter: Hook it on the hooks and slide it down. You may have to give the front of it a little push to get it past the windshield washer reservoir. Check that it seals and lines up all around. Get the black plastic nut/washer from before, and tighten down with your ratchet.
(14) Before you start the car, a recommended procedure that apparently resets the logic of the thing that's giving you the red light on the dash, and prevents the new battery from blowing anything out: Get in the car. Turn the key to on BUT NOT TO START. Now, turn the accessories on: seat warmers on each side, rear window defroster, radio, heater blower. Let them run on the battery for minimum 2 minutes. Turn the key off. Let it sit a second and then start the car. The red light should have cleared, assuming your new battery was sufficiently-charged.
Congratulations, you just saved yourself about $350, and have a fine battery in there.